Ed Hume Answers Your Gardening Questions
Ed Hume cannot answer all of the garden questions he receives, but questions
of general interest will be answered here every month. Email your questions
to HumeSeeds@aol.com. Please
note: we do not accept attachments.
Before submitting a question, be sure to check the index
of previous questions and answers or search our
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 I have Wysteria growing out
of control.I live on an old homeplace where it was planted long ago and as
the last owners got older the Wysteria grew and grew.I cut it back,sprayed
it with full concentrate Roundup,but it comes back and comes back fast.I
want it gone.What can I do?
 Cut it off at the trunk, then
treat the cut area with a stump remover product. The actual name of the product
is "Stump Remover". Apply according to label instructions.
Could you tell me what
kind of perennials are best to plant under evergreen trees? Also, can the
pine needles falling on the flower beds be harmful to the plants. I remove
them several times a year but, my plants still keep dying.
Shade perennials can be planted
under evergreens. Perennials like Primroses, Hosta, Astilbe, and Bleeding
Heart do well.
Pine needles do have a resin in them that can limit plant growth, so remove
them on a regular basis.
Perennials are competing with trees for water and nutrients, so feed the
perennials under the trees with a liquid fertilizer directly on the foliage.
Foliar feeding is the direct route to the plant, rather than to the greedy
trees above. Plants under evergreen trees also need special watering attention.
Check watering needs twice a week during summer.
See Also: What to grow under evergreens
I have a problem with weeds
and grasses in the borders. Two fellas just finished four days' work
pulling 'em up, weedeating, and so on.
The question is what is the intelligent thing to do next?
Probably the best solution
for you is to put down a weed fabric (a.k.a. landscape fabric) then bark
the area. The fabric allows water to penetrate into the soil, but keeps the
weeds from growing up through the fabric. When you are ready to plant any
new plants, you will have to cut a hole in the fabric to set out the new
plant.
This is the first year I have
planted Canterbury Bells from seed. They have bloomed
fabulously but are now in the process of dying off and going to seed. Is
there any special procedure that I should you at the end of their bloom,
i.e. dig them out, cut them back?
After flowering, the best thing
to do is cut off the dead flower stocks. No other care is needed.
Can the winter pansy be sown
right now (early August) in flats and then transplanted. Stanwood Wash.
Yes, they can be started now.
The problem is that it is a little late for a good fall bloom. You want to
start them in June or earliest July for fall color. Those started now will
give you best color next spring.
I live in south midwestern
Michigan and we continuously fight the earwigs and Japanese Beetles for our
foilage. Once one plague is over; another begins. I have tried suggested
techniqes from a well known organic gardening resource that have proves no
good in terms of getting rid of these pests. Do you have any concrete
suggestions? My leaves are stripped from the earwigs and the butterfly bush
can barely develop blooms before the beetles attack and ruin.
Early in the season, put a
band of making tape about 4 inches wide around the trunk/stems of these plants.
(Put it on tight so the insects cannot crawl under it.) Then apply a product
called 'Tanglefoot' onto the masking tape. Follow application directions.
As the insects climb the plant they get stuck in the sticky 'Tanglefoot'.
Check every now and then to be sure the insects do not form a bridge over
the backs of the dead ones. Bear gloves because 'Tanglefoot' is very sticky.
A number of years ago my wife
received from a friend numerous beautiful assorted Iris. Because of a family
illness over a long period of time they have been neglected. For the first
few years we had gorgeous flowers in the spring. Over time we have done nothing
with them and the number of blossoms each year has declined significantly.
We have not done anything in the way of fertilizing. It appears that the
area has also become root bound. What would your suggestion be:
1. In fertilizer
2. Separating plants
3. Any other actions.
First, the plants are over-crowded
and need to be separated and spaced. This is generally done right after they
finish flowering, but it is not too late to do it, now (August). Mix some
compost and processed manure into the new planting soil. Be sure the roots
(rhizomes) are set right at ground level...or at the same depth as they are
already planted. After bloom the tall foliage is cut back about 2/3 of the
way to the ground in a 'Tee Pee' shape. Feed the plants with a Rose type
fertilizer in mid-February. Water-in thoroughly after application.
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