Ed Hume Answers Your Gardening Questions
Ed Hume cannot answer all of the garden questions he receives, but questions
of general interest will be answered here every month. Email your questions
to HumeSeeds@aol.com. Please
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Other February Links
 My 84 year old Mother
lives in Bremerton. For years we have tried to get something to grow in the
flower beds right next to the house. Her soil isn't great and seems to have
small bark chips in it. Another problem is that this area is under the eaves
and doesn't get much water. A few bluebells manage to come up every year,
but other than that, everything we've tried doesn't last longer than one
season.
Any suggestions? I've about given up, but Mom does enjoy flowers and I'd
love to find something that could survive with loving neglect, little water,
and much enjoyment.
 That's really tough.
Maybe the solution is to plant out at the edge of the eaves, and not try
to plant under them. However, here are a few plants that will tolerate some
dryness: Yarrow, Artemisia, Coreopsis, Globe Thistle, Gaillardia, Liatris,
Sedums, Sage, Statice, Bachelor Buttons, Strawflowers, Cosmos.
We have a large Wysteria
growing along the front of the house. I am afraid that it is holding moisture
against the house and damaging the siding. I would like to move is to an
archway trellis to prevent damage. What is the best way to transplant a Wysteria?
Should I prune it beforehand? If so, how much?
Winter dormant season
is one of the best times of the entire year for moving a Wisteria. An established
vine is hard to manage in any move, so it will be a lot easier if you cut
it back before moving it. They will tolerate quite severe pruning, so cut
it back to a size that is going to be manageable for you to move the vine.
My guess is that would be back to 4 to 6 feet. However, you can prune even
a bit more if needed.
I've listened to your
show and searched the web but I am having trouble finding specific information
on how exactly to prune my apple tree. I've never done it before and I know
I need to shape the tree, but when I look at it now it is just a jumble of
limbs with a lot of new growth shooting up the middle. I've heard to "shape"
the branches so the run horizontally--but what does that mean exactly? That
I simply cut off all the shoots in the middle?
It is really impossible
to tell a person how to prune any tree, because every tree has a different
growth habit. But, here are a few basic suggestions. First, prune out (or
thin out) any spindly growth and growth that criss-crosses, removing the
weakest branches. That opens up the tree to allow for better sunlight exposure
and for better air circulation. Next, remove the branches (suckers/water
sprouts) that go straight up, as these are of little or no value. Now once
you have done that you can get a better idea of what else needs to be done.
Encourage horizontal growth as it bears best, and again provides better sun
exposure, etc. Then it is simply a matter of thinning and shaping, until
you get the shape you desire. I suggest you look at the pictures in a pruning
book. Or, ask a neighbor or friend that has some experience in pruning, almost
always they will be more then happy to give you a helping hand. On the site
help, is the best help you can get.
We have a Fatsia japonica
that is growing by the side of our house next to the dining room window.
It has gotten so big that it is obstructing our view. I need to prune it.
How do I do it and when do I do it?
Cut back the main
stock to the height desired. Mine has frozen clear to the ground and come
back beautifully, so they will tolerate quite severe pruning. ,during the
winter dormant season is a good time to prune them.
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